Mexcellaneous Vol. 3: The Divine Comida
Our first meal back in the United States was low-grade El Paso Italian and Budweiser. We weren't much interested in tracking down tacos.
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Between Two Anniversaries
Drug War II: Revolución en el Norte
Caught between two sets of cross-hairs, Juárenses are living, not only under siege, but also under occupation.
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Drug War I: A Tapestry of Murder
Less dangerous than Culiacán, the state capital of Sinaloa and the Mordor of the Mexican underworld, Mazatlán is nevertheless where the drug lords come to spend their holidays.
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Migration V: Arriaga Postscript
Many of the migrants we met and befriended three months ago have since become the very statistics we hoped they might avoid becoming.
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The Other Train
You know how it is there early in the morning in Los Mochis when the train pulls out of the station past the goats and the chickens and the small gardens of agave and you wonder whether it will ever…
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A Big Blue Watery Road
Austin and I—either growing bored of conversing with each other or else beginning to crack under the pressure of our gruelling schedule—were so looking forward to our eighteen hour criss-crossing of the Gulf of California that we decided the trip…
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Revolución en el Norte
When Mexico marked its Centenary of Revolution last month, bringing to a close two months festivities that began in September with its Bicentenary of Independence, many assumed the northern border town of Ciudad Juárez would either cancel or at least…
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Migration IV: A Walk in the Parque
Our Mexican host was not interested. "Not in a tourist attraction that takes something so serious and turns it into a source of amusement," he said. "That sort of thing is an embarrassment."
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Mexcellaneous Vol. 2
Our trip ended quietly at six o'clock in the morning, with a hug and a handshake out the front of an El Paso hotel, some fifteen hours after we crossed the Paso del Norte International Bridge and left Ciudad Juárez…
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Night on Bald Mountain
” The Mexican … is familiar with death, jokes about it, caresses it, sleeps with it, celebrates it; it is one of his favourite toys and his most steadfast love.” — Octavio Paz There are skulls in the presidential palace.…
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