Less dangerous than Culiacán, the state capital of Sinaloa and the Mordor of the Mexican underworld, Mazatlán is nevertheless where the drug lords come to spend their holidays.
You know how it is there early in the morning in Los Mochis when the train pulls out of the station past the goats and the chickens and the small gardens of agave and you wonder whether it will ever…
Austin and I—either growing bored of conversing with each other or else beginning to crack under the pressure of our gruelling schedule—were so looking forward to our eighteen hour criss-crossing of the Gulf of California that we decided the trip…
Our Mexican host was not interested. "Not in a tourist attraction that takes something so serious and turns it into a source of amusement," he said. "That sort of thing is an embarrassment."
Our trip ended quietly at six o'clock in the morning, with a hug and a handshake out the front of an El Paso hotel, some fifteen hours after we crossed the Paso del Norte International Bridge and left Ciudad Juárez…
” The Mexican … is familiar with death, jokes about it, caresses it, sleeps with it, celebrates it; it is one of his favourite toys and his most steadfast love.” — Octavio Paz There are skulls in the presidential palace.…
Mexican Catholicism is a fascinating thing. On the face of it, the burning bush is more or less recognisable, but inside the thicket, and down amongst the roots, one comes across some less familiar elements.